Lash artistry is constantly evolving, and if you're a lash technician who has mastered classic lash extensions, transitioning to volume lashing is the next logical step in elevating your skills. Volume lashes allow for fuller, more dramatic looks while maintaining a lightweight and natural feel. The transition from classic to volume application requires an adjustment in technique, product knowledge, and precision.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to confidently make the switch and expand your lash expertise.
Understanding the Difference: Classic vs. Volume Lashes
Classic lash extensions involve a one-to-one application process where one synthetic lash is adhered to one natural lash. This method is ideal for clients who desire a natural enhancement with added length and slight thickness.
Volume lashes, on the other hand, use a technique where multiple finer lash extensions are applied to a single natural lash in a fan-like formation. This creates a fuller, fluffier look while maintaining a lightweight feel. Volume lashes can range from 2D (two extensions per natural lash) to 10D or even higher, depending on the weight and health of the client's natural lashes.
Unlike classic lashes, which primarily focus on length, volume lashes emphasize density and texture. This technique requires a new level of skill, precision, and an understanding of fan creation, adhesive control, and proper weight distribution.
Essential Tools and Products for Volume Lashing
Transitioning to volume lashing requires specialized tools and materials to ensure optimal results:
Volume Tweezers: Unlike classic lash tweezers, volume tweezers have a finer grip to allow precise fan creation and placement. Choose tweezers that offer good control and a comfortable grip.
Thinner Lash Extensions: Volume lashes are significantly finer than classic lashes, typically ranging from 0.03mm to 0.07mm in thickness. These lightweight lashes allow multiple extensions to be safely placed on a single natural lash without excessive weight.
Adhesive with Faster Dry Time: Volume lashing requires adhesive that sets quickly to hold fans in place without closing. A slightly thinner viscosity adhesive with a fast dry time is ideal for volume applications.
Lash Tile or Palette: Keeping your lashes neatly arranged and accessible will help speed up fan creation and application.
Practice Sponge or Mannequin Head: Before working on clients, practicing fan creation on a sponge or mannequin head is essential for developing muscle memory and control.
Mastering the Art of Fan Creation
Creating beautiful volume fans is the foundation of successful volume lashing. There are different methods for making fans, and finding the technique that suits your style is key. Here are three popular fan-making techniques:
1. Pinching Method
The pinching technique involves pinching a small group of lashes between your fingers to encourage them to spread into a fan shape. This method is great for achieving precise control over fan width and symmetry.
Want to see the pinching method in action? Watch our quick YouTube Short demonstrating the technique here: Watch Now
2. Lonely Fan or Wiggle Method
Using tweezers, you gently wiggle the lashes apart on the strip until they form a natural fan. This is one of the easiest ways to create consistent, symmetrical volume fans.
3. Rolling Method
With the rolling method, you pick up multiple lashes at once, then roll them on the strip with tweezers to encourage a fan to form. This technique allows for a softer, fluffier fan effect.
Regardless of which method you prefer, practice is essential. The goal is to create symmetrical fans with even spacing, ensuring they adhere properly to the natural lash without closing or twisting.
Adjusting Your Adhesive Technique
One of the biggest adjustments when transitioning from classic to volume lashes is mastering adhesive control. Since volume fans involve multiple extensions per natural lash, excessive adhesive can close the fan, making it appear clumpy. Here’s how to optimize your adhesive use:
- Use a minimal amount of glue: Dip only the base of the fan into the adhesive to avoid overloading.
- Adjust pickup speed: Too much adhesive can result in a slow drying time, causing the fans to close before they adhere.
- Work in a controlled environment: Humidity and temperature affect adhesive performance. A stable environment will help maintain consistency.
Placement and Attachment for Volume Lashes
Unlike classic lashes, where a single extension is placed on the natural lash, volume fans require precise placement to ensure retention and a seamless blend. Proper attachment is key to longevity and preventing premature shedding.
- Ensure full contact with the natural lash: The base of the fan should wrap slightly around the natural lash for a secure bond.
- Avoid placing the fan too close to the eyelid: Leaving a 0.5mm to 1mm gap ensures comfort and prevents irritation.
- Use the right amount of pressure: Light pressure allows the adhesive to bond effectively without closing the fan.
Retention and Aftercare Adjustments
Volume lashes require slightly different aftercare than classic lashes due to the increased number of extensions per natural lash. To ensure good retention:
- Educate clients on proper cleansing: Oil-free lash cleansers and gentle washing help maintain retention.
- Recommend a spoolie brush for fluffing: Clients should gently brush their lashes daily to maintain the fluffy appearance.
- Advise against excessive moisture exposure: Sauna use and long-term water exposure can weaken the adhesive bond.
Speed and Efficiency in Volume Lashing
One of the biggest hurdles for new volume lash artists is speed. Volume applications take longer than classic sets, but with practice, efficiency improves.
- Prep your fans in advance: Pre-made or handmade fans can speed up the process.
- Work with structured mapping: Having a lash map ensures a balanced look and streamlines application.
- Use high-quality adhesive: A fast-drying adhesive reduces waiting time between lash applications.
Common Mistakes When Transitioning to Volume
Many lash artists make common mistakes when first learning volume lashing. Being aware of these pitfalls can help you avoid them:
- Using too much adhesive: This can cause fans to close or create a heavy look.
- Improper fan placement: If fans are not securely wrapped around the natural lash, they may pop off prematurely.
- Using incorrect lash thickness: Thick extensions (0.10mm or higher) are too heavy for volume fanning and can damage natural lashes.
Should You Offer Hybrid Lashes?
Hybrid lashes combine classic and volume techniques, offering a balance between natural and dramatic looks. If you're transitioning to volume, adding hybrid lash services can be a great way to introduce clients to fuller styles while refining your volume skills.
Final Thoughts
Moving from classic to volume lash applications is an exciting step that opens new possibilities for your lash artistry. Mastering volume lashing requires patience, practice, and a deep understanding of fan creation, adhesive control, and proper placement. By refining your technique and investing in high-quality tools, you'll be able to offer stunning volume lash sets that enhance your clients' beauty while maintaining the integrity of their natural lashes.
Are you ready to elevate your lash game? Start practicing your fans with our classic and volume lash extension trays today and take your lash business to the next level!
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